Inventory no.: 3719

Indian Gold Navaratna Ring

SOLD

Gold Navaratna Ring (Anguthi)

India

mid-19th century

height of bezel: 2cm, weight: 11g, Ring size ‘O’ (UK), 7 (US).

This beautiful and highly wearable talismanic finger ring of high-grade gold sheet over a lac core is set with the stones of the navaratna in a kundan floral motif setting. Additionally, the band or hoop has been set with fourteen turquoise cabochons, all the way around. The top and bottom of the band is incised with a scrolling or flowing motif.

Among the stones, which are foil-backed, are a yellow topaz to represent Jupiter, a ruby to represent the sun, a coral to represent Mars, a pearl to represent the moon, and a sapphire to represent Saturn.

Untracht (1997, p. 309) says that in Dravidian south India, the

navaratna gemstones are used as a rosary but elsewhere in India, they are used as a talismanic device. The nine gems have multiple meanings and associations. One is that each gem represents the nine celestial Hindu deities and the nine ‘planets’ . According to Untracht, rings set with the navaratna stones are a ‘much favoured ornament’ in India.

The correct construction of a navaratna ring could take a very long time. Says Untracht (p. 309):

‘Before commissioning such a ring from a goldsmith, one first brings the selected stones to a priest, who blesses them. At an auspicious time, they are then given to a goldsmith who will set thing in high-quality gold (22 karat). According to orthodox practice, when the gold setting is ready, each of the stones corresponding to a planet is set in the correct order of priority and position, at a time auspicious for the planet. If this procedure is followed, the process might take more than a year to complete.’

The ring is stable and ready to be worn.

References

Bala Krishnan, U.R., Jewels of the Nizams, Department of Culture, Government of India, 2001.

Barnard, N.,

Indian Jewellery, V&A Publishing, 2008.

Untracht, O.,

Traditional Jewelry of India, Thames & Hudson, 1997.

Provenance

UK art market

Inventory no.: 3719

SOLD