Large, Heavy & Very Enamelled Gold Nava-ratna Bazuband Pendant

This large, gold nava-ratna amulet for a talismanic or protective bazuband or arm band (now more easily worn as a chest pendant) is particularly fecund with large, lush gems. There are nine in total – nava means ‘nine’, and ratna means ‘gems’.

The rectangular plaque is domed with the nine gems being set in a grid format with the spaces between them filled with custom-cut plate diamonds. The sides are decorated with pale blue enamel (some loss due to wear), and the reverse is spectacularly enamelled with red, green and cream enamel with a Mughal-inspired flower and leaf schema in a manner which resembles a fine Persian carpet.

The plaque is flanked by two hinged trefoil, pierced flanges set with rubies and diamonds and enamelled on the reverse.

The ornament is heavy in the hand. It is covered in gold, but the interior is likely weighted with lac or lead.

The gems on a nava-ratna tend to follow a proscribed pattern with a ruby in the middle. Untracht (1997, p. 309) says that in Dravidian south India, the nava-ratna gemstones are used as a rosary but elsewhere in India, they are used as a talismanic device. The nine gems have multiple meanings and associations. One is that each gem represents the nine ‘planets’ and the nine celestial Hindu deities:

Ruby – Sun – Surya

Diamond – Venus – Shukra

Pearl – Moon – Chandra

Coral – Mars – Mangala

Zircon (or Hyacith or Hessonite) – Ascending Node – Rahu

Blue Sapphire – Saturn – Shani

Cat’s Eye – Descending Node – Ketu

Topaz – Jupiter – Brihaspati

Emerald – Mercury – Buddha

A nava-ratna jewel with essentially identical enamel work on the reverse as the example here is illustrated in van Gelder (2018, p. 265). It is attributed to late 18th century Murshidabad, West Bengal. Murshidabad was home to wealthy banking and merchant families from across India and Asia more widely. It is tempting to think it is from the same workshop.

Importantly, the fine enamelling on the reverse is in very good condition and is largely without loss. There is the expected loss to the blue enamel on the sides due to wear and rubbing, but otherwise, the pendant is in very fine condition, particularly for an 18th century jewel.