Exceptional Pair of Turkoman Five-Tier, Fire-Gilded Silver Cuff Bracelets (Bilezik)

This pair of cuff bracelets is among the finest examples of their type that we have seen. They are a true pair, the quality of the gilding is superb, they have five tiers (rather than the more typical two or three) and so were a clear sign of status and wealth on the part of the wearer, and their condition is unusually good. A very similar pair – perhaps from the same workshop – is illustrated in van Cutsem (2002, p. 151) and again in Geoffroy-Schneiter (2011, p. 45).

Women in the nomadic communities of what is today Turkmenistan often wore heavy, conspicuous jewellery. Girls were provided with such pieces on marriage as part of their dowry and the pieces were added to as the couple grew more affluent. This pair of cuff bracelets is an example of such jewellery.

This pair of bracelets are tapered so that they fit the contours of the wrist like cuffs. They are decorated with five bands separated by raised borders edged with pearled wire. The bands are decorated with engraved, stylised foliate motifs against a fire-gilded background. Orange-red oval glass plaques are mounted in gilded silver box settings. Glass has been used to emulate carnelian stones, a practice that started towards the end of the 19th century. Red carnelian was believed to protect the wearer against miscarriage and disease. Red itself was associated with happiness and fertility. There are 20 such plaques on each bracelet.

The fire gilding that has been used in the bracelets is characteristic of Tekke jewellery. The process involved the application of an amalgam of mercury and gold to the surface of the silver. Heating causes the mercury to evaporate leaving a gold layer fixed to the surface. The process was extremely dangerous on account of the mercury fumes.

The bracelets are open on one side and edged with serrated, triangular elements known as ‘snakes’ heads’ meant to symbolise life and which give the wearer further talismanic protection. Each snakehead terminal has been carefully fire-gilded with an outer gilded border.

Much available Turkoman jewellery today is of relatively recent manufacture. This pair is an excellent example of genuine antique Turkoman jewellery. There are minor signs of wear and use, but otherwise, they are in excellent condition.