Indian Partabargh Gold Theva-Work Brooch

The fine gold brooch of oval form comprises a large, thin glass sheet over a scene executed in gold foil against a green foil background – a type of work known as theva (or thewa) work. The panel is decorated with what is likely to be a deity and two consorts around a central peacock with other peacocks and birds with sprays of flowers and leaves, all within an oval border. The outer border of the brooch comprises a gold chain-like frame.

The reverse is backed with gold sheet, and a non-gold pin.

Theva work (‘theva’ means ‘setting’) was a specialty of Raj Soni goldsmiths from Partabargh in Rajasthan. They were men, all from one large, extended family. The technique involved incising and then cutting out small scenes and images from thin 24 carat gold. This was then fused onto glass behind which green and sometimes red foil was attached. The whole is then held in place by silver or in the case here, gold, mounts. Typically, theva work shows village scenes, hunting scenes, or Hindu deities.

Such a brooch initially would have been for a European client but then wealthier and courtly Indians also would wear Indian-made jewellery that originally was intended for the local expatriate and European market.

A related gold theva brooch is illustrated in Untracht (1997, p. 301). See a related example in the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The brooch here is in a fine and wearable condition. The theva work is unusually fine. Overall, this is a particularly good example of mid-19th century colonial Indian gold jewellery work.