Lampung Woman’s Ceremonial Skirt (Tapis Limar Sekebar)

This tapis (ceremonial skirt) is from the Abung people of North Lampung in South Sumatra and at more than one kilogram, in weight, it is surprisingly heavy, on account of the gold-wrapped threads use din its construction.

It remains closed and sewn as a skirt and so in its original condition (rather than having been opened for display purposes).

It comprises striped silk-cotton dyed with indigo, cream, mustard yellow and red dyes and has alternating registers densely embroidered with metallic thread wrapped in gold.

There are two prime bands of eight-pointed stars in a diamond or lattice structure. Additionally, several different sasab bands (densely embroidered bands of gold thread) can be seen. The two broadest are decorated with concentric diamond motifs, and one band has a herring bone motif.

The top part of the textile is left unadorned, probably to facilitate its tight wrapping around the midriff of the wearer, or because a long blouse would be worn which covered this section of the tapis.

(Totton, 2009, p. 38) identifies this tapis as a tapis limar sekar and this example and the example illustrated in Tottoon possibly are by the same maker. Totton says that the original owner was a noble woman who lived in North Lampung in the late 19th of early 20th century.

This spectacular use of gold-wrapped thread confirms the skirt’s origins from among the Abung people. Noblewomen wore such cylindrical skirts on ceremonial occasions. Or such skirts were worn by brides form wealthy families. The wealth for such ostentations displays was afforded by the lucrative pepper trade with which the south of Sumatra became associated during the colonial era, and which benefited the Abung directly.

Such a cloth, so laden with gold thread, would confirm the wearer’s well-to-do status.

The skirt is in very good condition. There are minor losses to some of the thread detailing and the top unadorned section has some age and use related staining.