9696

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    Omani Suite of Silver & Gold Bridal Jewellery

    Oman
    early 20th century

    length of hairband: 42cm, length of ear ornaments: 12.8cm, width of amulet pendant:9.8cm, combined weight: 586g

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    Provenance

    UK art market

    This suite of matched silver bridal jewellery inset with gold plaques comprises five separate elements: a necklace and hirz or amulet box, a head band with a forehead pendant, a separate necklace with pendant dangles, and a pair of ear ornaments or temporals.

    The hirz box is of fine silver. The front is decorated with an embossed gold panel along with applied triangles of thin gold sheet. The secondary necklace is similarly decorated with inset embossed gold panels, including a khanjar motif. It also incorporates gold-wrapped dangles, and a central red trade bead.

    The head band, of heavy woven silver wire, runs across the top of the forehead and terminates with small hirz boxes with gold panels, several bunches of dangles (one deficient on one of the boxes), and hoops from which the ear ornaments of temporals dangle

    The pair of ear ornaments is of silver with applied gold plaques. Their form is of a double cone with a pendant array of plump silver berries held together by three ribbed bands coated in gold. Beneath this is a triangular form comprising silver granulation work, a form that is commonly described as being based on the mulberry.

    The mid section of each ear ornament is decorated with a row of silver spikes – an allusion to the thorns commonly encountered in the Omani desert.

    Each is decorated with gold plaques impressed with flower motifs.

    The allusion to berries and leaves in this pair of ear ornaments is suggestive of fertility, prosperity and abundance – appropriate allusions for Bedouin women to wear.

    See Rajab (2004, p. 23) and Geoffrey-Schneiter & Crick (2016, p. 39) for related pairs.

    Overall, the set here is in fine condition. It is rare now to find a cohesive set.

    References

    Forster, A., Disappearing Treasures of Oman, Archway Books, 1998.

    Geoffrey-Schneiter, B., & M. Crick, Bijoux D’Orients Lointains: Au Fil de L’Or au Fil de L’Eau, Foundation Baur, Musee des Artes D’Extreme-Orient/5 Continents,
    2016.

    Norris, M., & P. Shelton, Oman Adorned: A Portrait in Silver, Apex Publishing, 1997.

    Rajab, J.S., Silver Jewellery of Oman, Tareq Rajab Museum, 1998.

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