Tekke Parcel-Gilt Silver Breast Ornament with Carnelians (Bukau)

This fine example of a breast jewel or ornament is from the Tekke (or Teke) Tribe, a Turkmen subgroup, of Turkmenistan, Central Asia. It comprises a pierced silver plaque with chains and dangles, with copious fire gilding and set with flat cabochon carnelians. It is part of a group of breast jewels known collectively as bukau.

Such large and extravagant pieces of jewellery were worn by Tekke women during wedding festivities, often were given as wedding gifts, and then worn during the first and sometimes the second year of marriage. Marriages were important in Turkman culture, and among the upper echelons, they were negotiated, arranged and almost always aimed at strengthening a family’s prestige and power.

Most such Turkmen jewellery dates to the 19th century and into the early 20th century. Traditionally, the Turkmen were herders and so the extravagant silver and gold jewellery for which they have become known could not have been afforded by this occuption. Instead, in the 19th century the Tekke economy especially received a structural boost from slavery – the capturing of members of rival tribes – and selling them into the Khiva and Bukhara slave markets. Jewellery was favoured as a store of wealth because of its portability and liquidity. It was also a display of wealth, and among the Turkmen, this was important, for it conveyed power and prestige.

The orange-red of carnelian was associated with blood, fertility and hence life. The seed-like silver dangles are also suggestive of fertility and prosperity.

See Hoek (2004, p. 93) for a related example of a breast ornament. And Seiwert (2009, p. 255) for another example.

The example here is in fine condition. The patina is unquestionable, particularly to the reverse. The ornament is accompanied by a custom-made display stand.