Enquiry about object: 10281
Two Tuareg Silver and Agate or Carnelian Hair Rings
Tuareg People, Niger, Mali 19th-early 20th century
length: 7.5 and 8.7cm, width: 2.7 and 3cm, combined weight: 132g
Provenance
Estate of Sheikh Saud bin Muhammed Al Thani of Qatar; Marc Ginzburg Collection, London
This splendid pair of silver rings with large, thick, flat, pointy carnelian or agate stones are not finger rings but rings intended to be worn in the hair to keep hair braids in place. They might also have been worn as pendants.
They were worn by the Taureg, a Muslim Berber or Amazigh sub-group who live mostly in Mali but also Niger, Libya, Algeria, Morocco and Chad.
The silver of each is engraved with typically Tuareg motifs.
These exact examples are illustrated in Ginzberg (2000, p. 254).
Other examples are illustrated in Borel (1994, p. 96), van Cutsem (2000, p. 48-49), van Cutsem (2005, p. 33), and Seiwert (2009, p. 107).
van Cutsem (2005, p. 266) claims that in Timbuktu, carnelian hair rings were worth twice as much as gold rings. The carnelian most probably came from Cambay in Gujarat, India, and found its way to the Tuareg regions of northern Africa via Mecca pilgrimage routes and trading routes across the Sahara. Lapidaries operated in Cambay for thousands of years and carnelian and other related stones from Cambay were traded across Africa and Asia. The German city of Idar-Oberstein is another potential source. It too has a long history of agate mines and gem cutting.
The two have good weight in the hand and are among the best examples of such rings we have seen. They are in excellent condition. Importantly, they have signs of age and wear.
These two rings were in the Marc Ginzburg Collection (and as mentioned, published in a book on that collection). Later it was acquired by Sheikh Saud bin Muhammed Al Thani of Qatar, a profligate collector. The Sheikh passed away in 2014.
References
Borel, F., The Splendour of Ethnic Jewelry: From the Colette and Jean-Pierre Ghysels Collection, Thames & Hudson, 1994.
van Cutsem, A., A World of Rings: Africa, Asia, America, Skira, 2000.
van Cutsem, A., A World of Head Ornaments: Africa, Asia Oceania, America, Skira, 2005.
Ginzberg, M., African Forms, Skira, 2000.
Seiwert, W.D., Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Bir Collection, Arnoldsche Art Publishers, 2009.







