Bukhara or Samarkand Woman’s Veiling Robe (Paranja) & Horsehair Veil (Tjasband)

This veiling robe and veil is from either Bukhara or Samarkand in what is now Uzbekistan. Local Muslim women wore the two together whenever venturing out in public.

The veil, which was worn in the presence of non-family males, was known as a tjasband is made from stiff, plaited horsehair loosely woven so that one ca see through it when worn over the face. The horsehair is woven loosely as a tabby weave and each warp comprises a single horsehair, while each weft is made of several strands of hair. The lower edge is decorated in cotton with a geometric band.  The other side edges are protected with cotton bands. It forms a simple, large rectangle with a button at the top. It is then folded over at the top and secured with the button to give the veil its structure. It can then be fitted over the head and worn.

The long veiling robe known as a paranja comprises grey striped silk, with black couched and coloured silk embroidered detailing, and an ikat and printed cotton lining. It is a wide, ankle-length robe worn over the clothes by women when outdoors.

Typical of Turkestan paranjas, it has two false sleeves which are joined at the back. The arms do not go down the ‘sleeves’ – they are purely decorative and are not ever worn down the sides like a sleeve but always on the back.

Local Jewish women also adopted the paranja but would wear a headscarf rather than a horsehair face veil.

The set here is in fine condition – both show clear signs of age and use. The paranja has some superficial staining but is complete and without restoration. The horsehair veil has some small holes and a tear to the lower section which has been natively sewn closed.

 

Above: Women with woven horsehair veils similar to the example here, photographed around 1895, probably in Samarkand.