10218

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    Rare Moroccan Pair of Silver ‘Worm Hole’ or Tizerai n Taouka Fibulae

    Southern Morocco, probably Ait Ouaouzguit
    18th century

    length: 20.2 and 20.4cm, width: 11.8 and 11.9cm, combined weight: 281g

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    Provenance

    private collection, Sri Lanka

    This pair of silver fibulae or cloak fasteners is of the increasingly rare ‘worm hole’ fibulae type. It is difficult now to find genuine examples of this labour-intensive type, especially in a pair, and in this condition.

    From southern Morocco, this type was made by carefully soldering hundreds of tiny silver rings or loops together until an entire fibula was formed. The effect is a fibula that looks like it has hundreds of worm holes (taouka) in the manner of old cedar wood boards. It’s a technique that has now disappeared; indeed, no 20th century colonial accounts of jewellery making in Morocco mention the production of these being observed, suggesting that all extant examples date to the 19th century or earlier. Each of the pair here has been further decorated with a central garnet cabochon in a box setting and surrounded by a small area of blue-green enamel, and two read glass or garnet cabochons at the terminals of each ring. Several edges also have been augmented with granulation work – a wealth and status signifier because only the wealthy would make use of silver in this unnecessary way.

    Today, many later examples seek to emulate true ‘worm hole’ fibulae by being made from hammered flat silver sheets that are then drilled with hundreds of holes to make it look like they have been made using this old and labour-intensive process.

    True ‘worm hole’ fibulae are relatively fragile, and so most surviving examples are cracked or otherwise damaged, incomplete, or much repaired. Heavy repairs are a testament to the expense and also the value to the owner of such fibulae.

    See Draguet (2020) for related examples, and Prolongeau-Wade (2008, p. 175) for a similar pair attributed to the 18th century. Seiwert (2009, p. 50) illustrates one related fibula but with some enamel work and attributes it to the ‘late 18th century’.

    The pair here have splendid age and patina. Their edges have been worn smooth from handling. There is some tarnishing. It is likely that this pair date to the 18th century, especially given that fibulae were heirloom pieces to be passed from generation to generation. They also lack significant enamelling and further embellishments which might be associated with later, 19th century examples.

    References

    Draguet, M., Berber Memories: Women and Jewellery in Morocco, Mercatorfonds, 2020.

    Prolongeau-Wade, S., Voyage des au Pays Fibules, Editions du Regard, 2008.

    Seiwert, W.D., Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Bir Collection, Arnoldsche Art Publishers, 2009.

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