9723

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    Indian Dyed Cotton Cloth for the Islamic Export Markets

    Machilipatnam, Andhra Pradesh, India
    circa 1850

    width: 62cm, length: 62cm

    Available Enquire

    Provenance

    UK art market

    This cloth, possibly intended as a head scarf, is the product of textile makers in Machilipatnam (Masulipatam) in Andhra Pradesh state in India. They produced textiles for the local Muslim community, and for Islamic export markets such as Persia and Indonesia. (Armenian traders were significant players in this trade at the time.)

    It is of cotton and decorated in the delicate, floral kalamkari technique associated with Machilipatnam.

    The designs are a combination of being block-printed and hand-drawn onto the cloth, usually with a bamboo pen, which was also used to apply wax resist and mordants.

    The design comprises a large red-ground field decorated with evenly spaced small floral sprays, all within a wide, colourful zig-zag border.

    The example here is in perfect condition and yet has clear age.

    References

    Barnes, R., S. Cohen, & R. Crill, Trade, Temple & Court: Indian Textiles from the Tapi Collection, India Book House, 2002.

    Crill, R., (ed.), The Fabric of India, V&A Publishing, 2015.

    Maxwell, R., Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation, Periplus, 2003.

    Wearden, J., Decorative Textiles from Arab & Islamic Cultures: Selections from the Al Lulwa Collection, Paul Holberton Publishing, 2015.

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