8705

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    Indian Gold & Enamelled Gem-Set Navaratna Pendant

    Benares, India
    circa 1870

    length (including pearl): 8.5cm, width: 5.1cm, weight: 40g

    Sold

    Provenance

    UK art market

    This large, fine, pierced, floral-form pendant is of gold (most probably over a lac core) set with nine  nava-ratna gems, including an emerald, a citrine, coral, moonstone and a sapphire, all around a large, faceted ruby, and interspersed with diamonds.

    Untracht (1997, p. 309) says that in Dravidian south India, the nava-ratna gemstones are used as a rosary but elsewhere in India, they are used as a talismanic device. The nine gems have multiple meanings and associations. One is that each gem represents the nine celestial Hindu deities and the nine ‘planets’.

    A large tear-shaped baroque pearl is suspended from the lower part of the pendant.  A  gold loop (set with a diamond) is at the upper end, to allow suspension.

    The reverse is beautifully enamelled in pink, cream and green enamels with Mughal-inspired flower motifs. The dominant use of pink is typical of Benares enamel work.

    The pendant is in an excellent condition, and is highly wearable.

    References

    Aitken, M.E., When Gold Blossoms: Indian Jewelry from the Susan L. Beningson Collection, Asia Society & Philip Wilson Publishers, 2004.

    Bala Krishnan, U.R., Jewels of the Nizams, Department of Culture, Government of India, 2001.

    Barnard, N., Indian Jewellery, V&A Publishing, 2008.

    Chong, A, & N. Murai, Journeys East: Isabella Steward Gardner and Asia, Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 2009.

    Untracht, O., Traditional Jewelry of India, Thames & Hudson, 1997.

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