Indonesian Lampung Clan Leader’s Wife’s Ceremonial Gold Thread Skirt (Tapis Raja Tunggal)

This tapis (ceremonial skirt) is from Northern Lampung in South Sumatra. It remains closed and sewn as a skirt (rather than having been opened for display purposes). It is a tapis cloth worn only by the wife of the oldest clan leader when attending weddings and other important events and so is known as a tapis raja tunggal  (literally, ‘sole or unique king’ tapis).

It comprises silk-cotton dyed with terracotta-red and dark purple-black dyes, and is densely embroidered and couched on both sides with bands of metallic thread wrapped in gold, applique work including metallic sequins.

It is decorated on both sides with three bands of riders on stylised four-legged nagas, each with a long tail, all in gold stitch. This motif is regarded as a kingly motif. In the lowest band, between each of these naga-and-rider motifs, is a key-hole like motif which might be regarded as a king’s ‘special’ gateway (Totton, 2009, p. 156).

These bands are separated by bands of stylised triangular mountain or pucuk rebung motifs.

A similar tapis raja tunggal cloth is illustrated in Totton (2009, p. 156).

The copious use of gilded metallic thread makes the skirt heavy – almost too heavy to be worn comfortably, and so such skirts were worn for only brief periods and for ceremonial occasions.

The condition for this piece is very good, particularly given its age and the material from which it is made. There are some loose threads, losses to the stitching on one band of pucuk gunung motifs and to some of the sequins, but largely, the couching and decoration are all intact. There are no holes, insect-related or otherwise. Overall, it is a fine and complex example.