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This whole panel of kain tenun (literally, ‘woven cloth’) was acquired new in the 1930s or earlier by a British colonial official. It was brought back to England and has been in storage since. As a consequence, it is in perfect, ‘as new’ condition. It is of predominantly of purple, green and yellow silk thread woven in stripes and chequers.
Kain tenun was handwoven often by small family enterprises in the traditional way using the Malay or Siamese floor weaving loom known as a kek Siam. It was produced on the Malay peninsula, mostly in Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang states. The resulting textile was used for sarongs but also for kain samping – the shorty sarongs Malay men traditionally wore over their trousers. Kain tenun was also tailored into traditional shirts for women (known as baju kurung and baju kebaya) and shirts for men (baju Melayu). The finest producers of kain tenun received commissions to supply the Malay peninsula’s many royal courts for most of the sultans, their families, and officials all wore the textile.
The example here with its chequered pattern was known as a corak berpetak-petak pattern.
As mentioned, it is in perfect condition. The colours are as bright as the day the textile was woven. It has never been used.
Ismail, M.S.Z., et al., Muzium Tekstil Negara/National Textile Museum, Department of Museums Malaysia, 2012.
Uda, Y.M.R.D.P. Fuziah Raja Tun et al., Tradition & Continuity: Woven and Decorated Textiles of the Malay Peninsula, Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia, 2013.