Fine Moroccan Berber (Amazigh) Amber & Coral Necklace

This fine necklace is from the Berber or Amazigh People of the Draa Valley in southern Morocco. It is in its original state, with its original threading and, unlike many extant available examples, has not been amended or added to in any way other than by the original owner. Probably it was last restrung locally and within the family unit around 1950.  Commonly, when a necklace was restrung, elements were added to many (much) earlier elements by its traditional owner.

Such necklaces were among the most valuable items many Berber women would own. As their wealth increased, they might add elements to the necklace over their lifetime. Similarly, if they needed money they might remove several elements and sell them to raise money.

The necklace comprises a series of graduated amber beads; large, bunched segments of Mediterranean coral; several white and blue glass trade beads; small striped sea snail shells; one large central hollow spherical silver alloy bead most likely traded in via the Ziz Vallery from northern Morocco, from which is suspended two silver disks and an old coin; several silver bells (some are somewhat crushed); and two larger black spherical beads known locally in Morocco as tak tak beads. These were highly prized and have become so sought after in Morocco that they are now sold on a per gram basis rather than by bead. They are likely to be Dutch and possibly French glass trade beads that date to the 17th century.

The amber beads present are old, authentic and unprocessed.

Related examples are illustrated in Hoek (2004, p. 29) and Draguet (2020, p. 396) – although the latter illustrated example has been added to and no longer is in its original state unlike our example here.

The necklace elements are flecked with remnants of scented paste which traditionally was applied to jewellery worn by women. It was applied not only for its scent but also for spiritual and aphrodisiac purposes. Pastes were ordered from specialist mixers and the recipes varied from retailer and also by purpose, but a typical recipe for such a scented paste might include rose petal powder, jatamansi (also known as spikenard or nard) powder, agarwood powder, mahlab powder, ground cloves, ground amber perfume block, gum Arabic powder, rosewater, ambergris tincture, geranium oil, rose essential oil, and neroli essential oil.

The necklace retains its original stringing.

Overall, it is a rare and authentic necklace of a type now difficult to come by. It contains rare, valuable and large elements, and as mentioned, it is in its original, traditional state.