Fine Moroccan Berber (Amazigh) Amber & Coral Necklace

This very fine necklace is from the Berber or Amazigh People of the Draa Valley in southern Morocco. It is in its original state, with its original threading and, unlike many extant available examples, has not been amended or added to in any way other than by the original owner. Probably it was last restrung locally around 1950.  Commonly, when a necklace was restrung, elements were added to many (much) earlier elements by its traditional owner.

Such necklaces were among the most valuable items many Berber women would own. Restringing was common as a family’s wealth grew and more components became available to add to a necklace. Similarly, if they needed money they might remove several elements and sell them to raise money.

The necklace here comprises amber beads; large bunched segments of Mediterranean coral; amazonite beads; glass trade beads including several Venetian lampwork beads that date to the 1920s; small striped sea snail shells; a large hollow silver alloy bead most likely traded in via the Ziz Vallery from northern Morocco; several particularly ancient carnelian beads; and thee Moroccan silver dirham coins dated 1321 and 1329 AH (1903-04 and 1911).

Also there are five small black spherical beads known locally in Morocco as tak tak beads. These were highly prized and have become so sought after in Morocco that they are now sold on a per gram basis rather than by bead. They are likely to be Dutch  glass trade beads that date to the 18th century.

The amber beads present are old, authentic and unprocessed.

Related examples are illustrated in Hoek (2004, p. 29) and Draguet (2020, p. 396) – although the latter illustrated example has been added to and no longer is in its original state unlike our example here.

The necklace retains its original black cotton stringing.

Overall, it is a rare and utterly authentic necklace of a type now difficult to come by. It contains rare, valuable and large elements, and as mentioned, it is in its authentic state.