Tekke Parcel-Gilt Silver Chest Ornament (Asyk) inset with Carnelian

This heart-shaped  ornament known as an asyk was worn by a Tekke woman in what is now Turkmenistan in Central Asia, and possibly Afghanistan. The spear-headed shape served partly as a protective or talismanic device designed to repel the evil eye. Typically they were worn on the back, rather than the front.

It is of solid silver that has been engraved and partly fire gilded (or gold plated) with splendid, withing arabesques. It has been further decorated with fine borders of applied wire work, and has been inset with a single, large red flat carnelian stone in central box setting. The top has an applied silver tube decorated with borders of applied silver filigree wire, and fire-gilded bands.

The fire gilding that has been used is characteristic of Tekke jewellery. The process involved the application of an amalgam of mercury and gold to the surface of the silver. Heating causes the mercury to evaporate leaving a gold layer fixed to the surface. The process was extremely dangerous on account of the mercury fumes.

Carnelian stones were believed to protect the wearer against miscarriage and disease. Red itself was associated with happiness and fertility. Carnelians also have a special place in Islam – the Prophet Mohamed is believed to have worn a silver ring mounted with a carnelian stone.

It is in excellent condition.