Thai Courtly Gold Pendant or Brooch set with Rubies

This fine solid-gold, open-work pendant, which can also be worn as a brooch, has an overall floral, lozenge-shaped design, and is richly ornamented with dozens of ruby cabochons. The construction is complex and based around a larger, central ruby in a raised setting augmented by applied gold granulation work. There are eleven suspended dangles, each set with a ruby, and which move in en tremble fashion.

Such pendants were made in Bangkok in the 19th century and were based on court jewellery. Indeed, many such pieces would have been made for minor royals of whom there were many on account of the extraordinary polygamy of the primary court. Mid-19th century Siamese court dress for ladies was elegant but simple which was perfect for the addition of complex, gem studded brooches, necklaces and pendants.

The Chakri Dynasty kings were very influenced by European fashions and this flowed through to dress and jewellery. The enormous prestige of the Chakri Dynasty saw these influences emulated by the rest of the upper echelons of Bangkok society.

Similar pendants are illustrated in Richter (2000, p. 94-95).

The pendant is in perfect condition. All stones are present, and there are no repairs. The pendant is particularly beautiful and very wearable. The reverse is fitted with a gold pin and catch so that the pendant can also be worn as a brooch.